‘London Street Food’ used to be a phrase that filled me with dread – used as a lazy marketing term in private equity-backed food start-ups. For them-commodification and commercialisation are what matters, with quality and ‘authenticity’ of secondary importance. Jaded, I thought the real deal was something I had to take a long-haul flight to find.

This was until I moved West and stumbled across Shepherd’s Bush Market – which rather ironically sits in the shadow of that temple of commercialisation, Westfield. Here, you can find street food of such quality, value and variety (from the Philippines to Afghanistan) that it should be a travel destination in its own right. Its rabbit-warren complexity can overwhelm visitors, but a constant and reassuring footfall of local shoppers means it doesn’t need hype to survive. Here’s all you need to know.

BEFORE YOU GO

It is only open Monday – Saturday 12.00-18.00. Be adaptable. Sometimes stalls close unexpectedly and in true street food style, most are masters of just one or two dishes. When they’re sold out, they’re sold out. Prices as listed below may change, but so far, they’ve remained remarkably inflation-proof.

Falafel wrap at Falafel Hut (£5)-

The market must have the highest concentration of quality falafel outside of the Arabic world. There are four stalls with falafel in the name (Falafel Hut, Falafel Point, Mr. Falafel and Sudanese Falafel) plus two further falafel vendors without – Noon Café and Grillmaster. For me,  Falafel Hut is a clear winner. Always fresh, their falafels are light, fluffy and moreish – but it’s the sides and sauces that really elevate the experience. The peanut butter aubergine, an influence from Sudan’s Saharan culinary culture, is addictive. The spicy ‘Shatta’ sauce is briny, punchy and citrussy, cutting through the falafel and aubergine perfectly.

Fried Fish at Falafel Hut (£10).

It took me a while to pluck up the courage to try this – after all, what would a falafel specialist know about fish? Turns out, a lot. Fresh from the fishmongers nearby, it’s usually a type of bream that is dusted first in lightly spiced flour, then deep fried to order. It comes with pitta and all of their sides and sauces. As a whole fish, it could feed two, though I can greedily have the whole thing on my own. Eat with your hands – it’s how everyone else does it and makes it easier to navigate any bones.

Hawawshi at Abu Yusuf’s (£5)

 Hawawshi is an Egyptian street food classic consisting of two flatbreads stuffed with a spiced minced meat sauce – imagine if a pitta and a calzone had a baby. At Abu Yusuf’s, everything has a personal touch. He makes the dough and sauce himself every morning and puts the whole thing together in front of you, judging by eye when it’s ready. Crispy on the outside and softened by the sauce inside, it will become a comfort food after your first bite. Ask for jalapeno to bring a crunchy freshness.

Onigiri and Miso at Sosaku Onigiri (£3.50 for single Onigiri, £10 for selection and Miso)

At first I dismissed this stall’s arrival as gentrification. I associate express Japanese food in London with chains like Wasabi and Itsu, suitable for The City, not for Shez Bu market. I was wrong. It is food made with love and feels part of a casual Japanese culinary tradition we are less exposed to in the UK. The triangular rice packets conceal flavour bombs of what can be nostalgic (tuna mayo) or bold (pickled mustard leaf). Paired with a miso soup, it makes for a quick and satisfying lunch.

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Merguez Baguette at Sam Sandwich – Extraordinary Algerian baguettes made by a master, the only thing keeping it off the main list is the baffling opening times.

Pork Lechon at Asian Harvest Butcher – this restaurant attached to a Filipino butcher specialises in hardcore offal dishes that make St. John’s nose-to-tail menu look like a selection of turkey twizzlers. , The fabulously crispy roast pork lechon is a great entry-level option.

Qabeli Paulau at Takharistan – AnAfghani stall whose Qabeli Pulao is a warming cousin to Biryani and Plov. It is delicately spiced with a scattering of currents and melting lamb – and for just £3 extra you can get a topping of fantastic mutton curry.