North

‘Aren’t pubs meant to be welcoming?’

Having the misfortune of being allocated a waiter who’s just been dumped, given the table closest to the bog, straight-up idiotic ordering or offensively expensive wine can all result in one leaving a restaurant itching for a bitching – despite all the hype…

Central

Plan B

The Devonshire

Proof that the hype machine still has the capacity to surprise, the most feted London opening of recent times is not a silly small-plate extravaganza or a Michelin-bait temple to haute cuisine, it’s a pub in Piccadilly Circus…

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