Despite spending most of my time building restaurants and being a self-professed ‘foodie’, when friends ask me where they should book their next meal in London, I often draw a blank. In an era of restaurants coming and going faster than seasonal fashion, the ever-expanding list of places one carries in their pocket can seem impossible to manage. Working through mine would require eating out twice a day for the rest of my life – a rather nice thought, though a terrifying prospect for my wallet… and my waistline…
‘Aren’t pubs meant to be welcoming?’
Having the misfortune of being allocated a waiter who’s just been dumped, given the table closest to the bog, straight-up idiotic ordering or offensively expensive wine can all result in one leaving a restaurant itching for a bitching – despite all the hype…
Plan B
The Devonshire
Proof that the hype machine still has the capacity to surprise, the most feted London opening of recent times is not a silly small-plate extravaganza or a Michelin-bait temple to haute cuisine, it’s a pub in Piccadilly Circus…