Stepping into Soho icon, Kettner’s, feels like stumbling upon a secret party you’re thrilled to crash. The ambience? Vintage glamour with a touch of mischief – think candlelit corners, plush seating, and a heavy-handed dash of old-school Parisian charm. Founded in 1867 by Auguste Kettner, (reputedly a former chef to Napoleon III) Kettner’s has always been more than just a place to dine. It was designed as a haven for the bohemian elite – a place where London’s socialites could mingle in style, shielded from prying eyes behind decadent walls. Rumour has it that some of the most scandalous figures in history have crossed its threshold – from King Edward VII to Oscar Wilde and even infamous lovers, Edward and Wallis Simpson… ooh là là. As one of London’s oldest restaurants, Kettner’s has witnessed more romance and intrigue than a 19th-century novel. The 33 private bedrooms were famously the setting for whispered affairs and clandestine meetings – each room designed for a specific mood and level of privacy. After an unexpected stint as a Pizza Express in the 1980s and another brief closure in the early 2000s, Kettner’s has been beautifully restored – keeping its original glamour intact yet updated for modern tastes. Reopened by the Soho House group in 2016 to its members, they opened the doors to the general public in 2023. Now onto food, where the menu itself has been refreshed but sustains a timeless offering of French classics. I started with a Cavaillon Highball – a heady cocktail of champagne, Muyu jasmine and melonade – before moving swiftly moving onto a few Fine de Claire oysters and St Jacques in garlic butter and chilli. Oui, s’il vous plaît. For main, of course there’s the steak frites – fairly priced for this area of town and swimming in a boatload of creamy béarnaise sauce. Swayed by the brisk autumn weather on the day of my visit I also had the French onion soup. Served in a traditional ceramic crock, the rich caramelised onion broth is topped with bread and cheese to gooey perfection – a bistro staple done correctly. For dessert, I diligently adhered to the theme of French classics, choosing a crème brûlée made from smooth Madagascan vanilla and topped with a delicate layer of crunch. Generous portions meant that it was enough for two and perfectly accompanied a reviving cup of coffee. Whether you’re in the market for a night of celebration, looking to impress a date – or indeed to find one – Kettner’s makes every visitor feel as if they’ve entered a timeless tale where the atmosphere is spellbinding and the history is as delicious as the dessert.