From an entirely biased point of view, I feel that the relatively small population of Ireland (just over 5 million) is disproportionately represented in areas ranging from sport and art to literature and music. After hundreds of years of colonial oppression, it seems that Irish people are making their mark on all industries – but perhaps none more so than hospitality.
The stereotype is that Irish people are hospitable, friendly and fond of a drink. The reality is much more nuanced than this – but there is some truth behind the trope. There are millions of Irish people settled all around the world, and solo travelling (in my case, in Mexico, Central America and the Pacific) is often significantly facilitated by an Irish accent and a willingness to chat with everybody. I will always feel at home when a pint is poured for me by an Irish bartender.
Living in London, I feel my Irish heritage even more strongly, so am always looking for Irish-owned businesses to shout about. Here are three I often return to when I feel the need for nostalgia.
Fortitude Bakehouse. Tucked into a cobblestone mews behind Russell Square, Fortitude has been operating since it was opened by Dee Rettali in 2018. I am somewhat impartial in my adoration here, as Dee acted as a mentor to me when I moved to London in 2020. On my first visit to her bakery, she sat me down on the wooden benches outside and gave me invaluable advice on working in hospitality which I still think about today. I return for treats as often as I can – and it’s top of my list of the bakeries I recommend to people visiting London. Dee’s bakes are unlike anything else you’ll find in the city: the cake batters are fermented, making them more digestible and adding complexity of flavour.
Be prepared to queue (particularly amongst large groups of cyclists rewarding themselves from their morning ride) but you’ll be handsomely rewarded for your efforts with offerings including sandwiches (such as the Moroccan Kefta Baguette), sticky cinnamon buns, beignets (at the time of writing, filled with pistachio cream) and everything in between. A lot of the bakes are enhanced with ingredients like Guinness and ras el hanout – a nod to Dee’s Irish upbringing in Cork and time spent in Morocco.
Café Cecilia. Situated on the canal just around the corner from Broadway Market, Café Cecilia is a serene, light-filled restaurant – the simplicity of which belies its genius. Run by Max Rocha, a Dubliner who trained at the River Café and St John, it features a seasonal menu with certain classics (Guinness bread, sage and anchovy fritti, deep-fried bread and butter pudding) perennially present. It can be hard to get a dinner reservation, so I recommend a late lunch – allowing plenty of time for a wander down Broadway Market beforehand and a pint in the afternoon sun afterwards.
The aforementioned Guinness bread is deeply malty and served with salty butter, the fritti are perfectly crisp, and the bread and butter pudding is sweet, crunchy and bathed in a pleasing pool of cold custard. My main course is poached trout with tarragon aioli, purple sprouting broccoli and a bowl of chips – for me, the hallmark of a good restaurant. These chips were perfect; finger-sized, crispy on the outside, soft on the inside and ideal for mopping up any sauce left on the plate. Cafe Cecilia is a place that makes me feel proud to be Irish. Not only is Max a talented chef, author and businessman, but his family are a deeply influential part of the restaurant, from the interiors (designed in part by Max’s father, John) to the uniforms (created by Max’s sister, Simone). Their thoughtful approach combined with tasteful music, exquisite food – and a perfect negroni which you can now buy by the bottle – guarantees that you will leave Café Cecilia feeling thoroughly looked after.
Angie’s Freehouse. My local is best defined by what it lacks: sophisticated design, elegant lighting, a comprehensive wine list and a food menu. If you’re looking for an upmarket pub experience, this is not the place. What you will get from Angie’s is a consistently good pint of Guinness at an unbelievable price (£4.60), quick and friendly service from the largely Irish bar staff and an authentic and comfortable atmosphere. This is a pub for locals. As the sun starts to emerge from hibernation and the scent of summer is in the air, I highly recommend that you make your way to Maida Hill for a round of pints (four of which will give you substantial change from 20 quid) and sit basking in the afternoon sun on the benches outside.