What is the concept behind The Shoap?
It’s a Scottish cafe-deli. Some people find it quite funny to have ‘Scottish’ next to ‘deli’, but that’s the whole point: changing the perception. Many don’t realise the breadth and quality of produce there is in Scotland – cheese, charcuterie, premium meats, pies and pastries, sea salt and seaweeds, black pudding and haggis, soft fruits and even chocolate and coffee. Those are just the first ones that come to mind as I think about our fridges and shelves – and that’s before considering whisky, beer and cider. The café element is our opportunity to bake and cook – traditional Scottish morning rolls, a range of cakes and biscuits, scotch pies and a monthly menu of ‘pieces’ (i.e. sandwiches).
How would you best describe ‘Scottish scran’?
For me, it’s food which focusses on quality Scottish produce. That could be a crispy morning roll with square sausage and black pudding for breakfast, a lunch of smoked haddock on toast with a poached egg, and venison or some great quality beef mince with a buttery tattie puree for dinner. The point is that ‘Scottish scran’ is varied and there’s so much that comes under the banner – you can go premium, or eat well while not spending much at all.
What has the reaction been from the North London community?
Absolutely brilliant – it’s class to see locals, as well as Scots, pop in for a morning roll or just a pint and a pie.
How does it feel to unite fellow Scots yearning for a piece of home?
It’s amazing. I love hearing the conversations across tables – people asking each other where in Scotland they’re from, how long they’ve lived in London and how much they’ve missed a roll. It’s also why we host the comedy nights, have Scottish artists play some tunes and run events with Scottish creatives. We want it to be a bit of a hub. I want everyone to come and get a taste of the homeland – the full show.
What are the deli’s best-selling items? Any surprises?
Aside from the obvious ones like morning rolls, Irn Bru and Tenants, people are surprised by how nice the coffee is. It’s roasted on the Isle of Skye by Jamie at Caora Dhubh and it’s the best I’ve tried. The cheeses also do really well and our smoked fish which comes from East Neuk up in Fife. It’s out of this world – once folk try that, they’re hooked.
Most common misconception about Scottish food?
Probably that everything is fried. Scotland has a lot of quality fried foods and really good chippy’s with amazing fish, but we always get tarred with negatives. I don’t have a fryer in the Shoap although I always have a laugh creating a menu using one for events and pop-ups. The pizza crunch pop-up we did last year was one of our best to date.
You grew up in Glasgow. What dish is the ultimate taste of home for you?
A well-fired square sausage and egg morning roll is always the first thing I get when I’m home – and that’s despite us baking them every day. A lot of folk don’t realise that loads of Scottish people eat a morning roll every day for their breakfast at home. There’s this roll culture. Rolls are a way of life.
You’ve been credited with giving oft-forgotten Scottish suppliers a rightful platform in the capital. How do you source them? Who are some of your favourites?
It’s a bit of digging and word of mouth. There are so many small-scale suppliers producing incredible stuff and they all have backstories which I’m obsessed with and want to share with our customers. Off the top of my head – Mossgiel, Mungoswells, Bare Bones, Rapscallion, East Neuk Kilnhouse, Findlay’s of Portobello, IJ Mellis and Alex Dalgetty. Folk should have a wee read-up on them as they’re all brilliant.
You quit your job as an economist to pursue a career in hospitality. What advice would you give to someone thinking of making a similar change?
Be as open as you can about your business ambitions with your current employer, and try and negotiate a reduced working week to free up time to work on your business. I spent a year working full-time in my career whilst doing weekend food before I went down to 4 days. I took my time, making sure there was a market and I had a decent brand and customer base before I jumped ship.
Where are your favourite spots to eat in London?
I am usually a grab-and-go guy these days, so places like Paulie’s Bagels, Sonora, Rogues Sarnies, World Famous Gordos, BPPS, Londis N16 and X’Ian Impression. I’ve got a massive list of sit-in places I want to try. Cafe Cecilia is incredible but my secret place is Yipin China in Angel. Maddi and I usually go there when we’ve had a late night and it always sorts us out.
And in Scotland?
In Glasgow, I like to eat at Naked Soup, Five March, West Side Tavern, Big Counter and Sylvan. My roll shops are Henry Healy’s and Nan’s. In Edinburgh, I usually head to the Original Mosque Kitchen for incredible food or Alby’s for a sandwich. Usually, I’m in the pub in Edinburgh though – the Black Cat, Teuchters or The Salt Horse.
What’s next for The Shoap?
The plan is to open a base in Scotland, host more events and grow our online presence so people around the UK can access all of the great Scottish products I’m always battering on about. Canny wait.
