When you think of Michelin-starred dining, ‘cheap’ isn’t a word that springs to mind – and rightly so. That red and white sign is synonymous with the highest quality produce, perfectly balanced food, immaculate presentation and faultless service – all of which should be reflected in the price.

But don’t despair. There is a (not so secret) loophole that means even those on a budget can reach for a taste of the stars. And it’s lunch.

I headed to Trishna to try their three-course £45 lunch menu on a bright Sunday afternoon. Situated in the heart of Marylebone, the space is informal, with dark wood panelling and walls hung haphazardly with historical memorabilia. If you’re worried about pretentiousness, then worry no more. It is sweet, unassuming and run by charming and affable staff.

We began with a variety of papads and chutneys – simple, plentiful and perfectly accompanied by a nice cold beer. No complaints so far. For starters, we shared aloo chaat, a classic Indian dish of potatoes with masala chickpeas and tamarind, plus the Tellicherry squid and shrimp. Sweet and sour spiced potatoes with the sour tang of yoghurt, and then beautifully crisp fried seafood – it was a harmonious marriage of both flavour and texture. To follow, the Badami broccoli and dill and pepper salmon were deliciously aromatic. The latter was nicely charred and served with cooling raita, smoked raw papaya and samphire chaat.

We sensed our main courses arriving before we saw them, with waves of cinnamon and cardamon hitting our noses before the dishes did the table. One cashew and pepper chicken and one Gongura lamb – plus every side you could possibly need to soak up every drop of each perfectly fragrant curry, namely spiced roast potatoes, dal, rice and buttery herb-covered naans. It was elevated and contemporary Indian food, but authentic, joyous and gut-busting at the same time.

Two little petit fours to finish and my doggy bag and I rolled out onto the street, feeling fat, full – and confident that £45 had never tasted so good.