In today’s fast-paced world characterised by ever-shrinking attention spans, does a restaurant need to iterate to stay relevant? The story of Newington Green’s neighbourhood darling Perilla suggests that it sure can help.

Perilla has long been a favourite spot of mine, not just because the food is so tasty it is guaranteed to elicit ‘mmms’ and ‘aahs’ from everyone around the table, but the beautifully executed minimalistic design strikes a chord with my personal, and often quite picky, preferences.

Perilla was founded in 2016 by Matt Emmerson (ex-Polpo) and Ben Marks (ex-Noma and The Square), who after a series of successful pop-up residencies wanted to settle somewhere more permanently. Their goal was simple; top quality food complemented by a relaxed yet atmospheric space to enjoy it in. Both then aged 24 and with no real design background, they decided to call in the big guns to help them build their dream space. However, a quick glance at the invoice meant that the plans presented to them by a studio better known for working on a Soho House kind of scale were swiftly thrown out the window.

Perilla opened in 2016 on a shoestring; all the equipment was second-hand, the main table at the centre of the room was Matt’s dining room table from home, and the art on the walls belonged to Matt’s mum. It was a challenging opening phase, but bit by bit it gained popularity until it reached the coveted ‘hype phase’ that everyone is seemingly chasing. People (especially Londoners) are fickle, and so once this had died down, there followed a natural lull – though Ben’s successful turn on Great British Menu in 2019 helped to regenerate attention just before the dreaded lockdown.

Although undoubtedly a hammer blow to the hospitality industry, Matt and Ben took this oddly vacuous period as an opportunity to get creative. Here enters Tim Parker, a carpenter and friend of Matt’s, to elevate the restaurant design. They chose a single oak tree and used it to make every tabletop. The effect is a wonderfully simple, ambient space with an emphasis on raw timber – which is always a win for me when it comes to design. At each seat, diners reach down to their right to find a subtle drawer built into the table – pulling it out to reveal a whole toolbox of cutlery for starter, main, dessert, butter knife – the works. A small but interesting touch that is considered, engaging and of course, masterfully crafted.

Minimalistic design is commonplace in hospitality, but not always well executed. Whether it was raw talent, an initial lack of budget or the opportunities provided by its two closures, Perilla has managed to get it really right. Adolf Loos would be proud. Whilst initially, food took the lead and the space was there to celebrate the menu, after time, maturation and continuous iterations, a reverence for the space itself has elevated the dishes and influenced the food. Fantastic design does not need to be overthought, and Perilla’s stripped back approach allows the food to do the talking and the punters themselves to form the body of the interior.

It goes without saying that their new spot, Morchella, is next on my list.