As Head Sommelier at Plates, Alex Price knows more than a thing or two about the city’s ever-evolving wine scene. Here, she shares her top three spots to enjoy a glass – or indeed, a bottle – south of the river.
New Discovery: Bar Levan
Whilst Levan has been going strong since 2018, the opening of Mark Gurney and Matt Bushnell’s Bar Levan (née Larry’s) has been a welcome new addition to Peckham’s food and wine scene. Taking inspiration from some of their favourite Parisian spots, Bar Levan has a more grown-up look, with the burgundy red walls as iconic as the Rare’s that line the shelves. The vin du jour by the glass list is perfectly concise; they buy in 12 bottles of each offering and once it’s gone, it’s gone – making it the perfect set-up for curious regulars. For those who like to trophy hunt, there is a very special list of bottles with a focus on the Jura. Soak it up with a healthy slab of paté en croute, chase with one of their extensive mezcal options and you are good to go.
What I last drank: Natalia & Phil Harris, Bacchus/Ortega 2022
Special Occasion: Lower Wine Bar
When three friends with a combined CV that features Clove Club, Brat, and 10 Cases open a wine bar, it’s worth paying attention. Situated on Lower Marsh, from which it takes its name, Lower is an intimate wine bar and bottle shop with a cellar that’s fast becoming one to watch – especially if you want to splurge on that kindly-priced but hard-to-find bottle of Burgundy. Curated by former 10 Cases Head of Wine, Alex Pitt, the list is thoughtfully categorised into informative yet intriguing sections, covering classics like ‘Chardonnay, Les Aligateurs, Jura, Pinot Family’ alongside more esoteric selections such as ‘Atlantic and Islanders.’ It’s the sort of place I’d love to live around the corner from – perfect for those winter nights when you and some friends get totally lost in the list while snacking on one of the best tortillas I’ve eaten in a long time. I’m already planning my next visit after eyeing that tasty-looking bottle of Domaine Roumier Clos de la Bussière.
What I last drank: Javier Revert, ‘Micalet’, Valencia, Spain 2022
Old Favourite: Naughty Piglets
OwnerMargaux Aubry has been hugely instrumental in promoting London’s natural wine scene over the past 10 years – often ending wine dinners with her signature move of bringing out aged Comté and insanely rare Vin Jaune
. It’s perhaps no surprise then that at Naughty Piglets, they choose to forgo a traditional wine list, relying instead on the expertise of their talented staff. This approach encourages you to explore something you might not typically choose while engaging with the team to find something superb from their extensive cellar. In addition to the bottles, they offer seasonal by-the-glass lists that change with each chef residency – an impressive rotating roster that includesnames like Michael Bagnall, Will Faris, and Marta Sandini. Nothing but good vibes here.
What I last drank: Domaine d’Ici La, La Croisette 2019