As Head of Wine at Plates, Alex Price knows more than a thing or two about the city’s ever-evolving wine scene. Here, she shares her top three spots to enjoy a glass – or indeed, a bottle – in central London.
Old Favourite: The Remedy
It’s always a good sign when you see the owner of a wine bar or restaurant at every sought after tasting in the trade calendar – and this is most certainly the case for The Remedy co-owner Andrea Sabbatini. An extensive stint in the industry has made him a key figure in the trade, with many people flocking in the knowledge that whatever Andrea recommends, it’s going to be good. On my last visit, I got an insider tip that they are about to list EVERYTHING that’s in their cellar. This is big news for collectors and curious drinkers alike, offering well-priced rarities alongside their already excellent list – which starts with an extensive sparkling selection of fab grower champagnes plus some intriguing ‘effervescent’ alternatives. The rest of the list is mainly European with a sprinkling of some of the new world’s top winemakers. And of course, there’s the food. Their menu provides a tasty selection of snacks – yes, I’m talking about those Roman Croquettes – and some well-priced mains to keep you well-fed as you sip your way through the list.
What I last drank: Domaine Guiberteau, Saumur Blanc 2021, Loire France
Special Occasion – La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels Seven Dials
If there was ever a time that you wished to escape London, even just for a moment, then La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels – CVS for short – is the place to be. Nestled in the colourful courtyard of Neal’s Yard in Covent Garden, this cosy wine bar, run by the Paris-based Experiential Group, is a charming spot to settle into for a pretend Parisian evening. After a long week, I stopped by on a Sunday night for a glass of champagne, a bowl of fries and the tastiest beef tartare that I’d had in a long time. Once the hunger had subsided, it was time to dive into the wildly extensive list of natural wines – with multiple, hard-to-find vintages from some of the most exciting and iconic winemakers in Champagne, Jura and Burgundy. I could have stayed for hours accompanying glass after glass with multiple reorders of beef tartare, but alas it was Sunday night and closing time came all too fast. Only before one last indulgence – ice cream and a pour of green chartreuse. C’était parfait.
What I last drank: Marie Chappaz, Grains 5 2012, Valais Switzerland
New Discovery – The White Horse
Central London isn’t exactly short on wine bars, so finding a fresh standout is no easy feat. But after spotting The White Horse in Mayfair all over industry pals’ Instagram stories – and knowing it’s the unpretentious little sister of Hedonism Wines – I had to check it out. Visiting on a sunny Tuesday afternoon, my mum and I grabbed a prime spot at the window – right next to a wax-dripped candelabra that looked like it had survived centuries of wild dinner parties. The wine list arrives via iPad, Noble Rot-style – not my preferred format, but easy to navigate and it lets you build a wish list if you’re torn between a few options. The list itself was shorter than expected and leaned towards the traditional – although I wouldn’t be surprised if a secret stash of Hedonism gems exists for those in the know. We started with a glass of English fizz before trying their blind-tasting option: 50ml for £3.50 with a free bottle yours if you guess correctly. I always love these little challenges and it’s a smart way to get drinkers interacting with the list. Lastly, don’t skip the snacks – the crudités with tarama were as beautiful as they were delicious.
What I last drank: Gusbourne Blanc de Blanc 2019, Kent, England
