4000 Records and a Packed Natural Wine Cellar in de Beauvoir

They say there’s no such thing as one glass of wine. And if that’s a phrase you live by, you’ll find a steady friend in De Beauvoir’s new hotspot, Goodbye Horses. A pour-over coffee shop by day, it transforms into a cosy restaurant at 5 pm with a focus on natural wines and sharing plates. Funky orange wine-loving zellenials have taken note; filling the seats inside and out on a Thursday evening – though head honcho George de Vos assures me there’s no shortage of Boomers and Gen Xers passing by for a nightcap.

De Vos is no stranger to creating good vibes that attract an eclectic crowd. With teeth cut as GM at Brilliant Corners, he’s coming into his own with business partner Alex Young, having kept an eye out for the perfect spot the past three years. And perfect it is, with Goodbye Horses already loved by audiophiles all over town – happily making the pilgrimage East to indulge in both the huge variety in the wine cellar as well as the 4000 record-strong vinyl library which, stacked high, greets you at the entrance.

Music might be the main draw, but don’t expect a Japanese jazz kissa where you’ll sit, shut up and listen – London simply doesn’t have the cultural bearings for this solitude-laden enjoyment. The focus is vibe. ‘Music helps us create an atmosphere and set the tone for the evening,’ de Vos tells me. ‘It’s just like light, aroma, design, the type of service that we deliver and the people in our team. Music has the power to influence our guests’ moods from the moment they walk in.’ Goodbye Horses aims to seamlessly enhance the ambience without overpowering it. ‘A truly awful experience is being in a room where the music is too loud and conversations compete with it.’ All through the evening I delighted in conversation that was embellished by good tunes across jazz, indie, rock – never too loud so as to strain one’s voice. And whether by design or accident, every dish arrived at a chilled pace, each a centrepiece before the empty plate was whisked away and replaced with another marvel of taste – Carlingford oysters, sardine sobrasada on milk toast, Dorset clams, oxtail ragout rice, lobster dolmas and best saved for last: treacle ice cream with granola crust and berries. And then, the wine! I was told by someone in the know: ‘Don’t order a bottle’, so instead I followed the team’s recommendations which didn’t fail to surprise or delight.

When it comes to the music, gone are the days of song-shuffle: Goodbye Horses is a full-album affair. Before service begins, the team curate a broad selection of what they would like to play that evening. ‘Sometimes, the choices align perfectly with the atmosphere, but more often we find that the night’s vibe calls for something different’, de Vos explains. It’s a case of match-making to keep the mood flowing – or at times an intervention to elevate the energy in the room. The sound system is a self-professed labour of love, built with equipment from the ‘70s and ‘80s, carefully sourced through eBay and second-hand music gear sites. It comprises eight tube amplifiers and four refurbished Lancaster speakers; ‘In our view, its distinctive look and unmatched sound quality set it apart.’ For now, there’s no assigned DJ or rotating roster spinning the decks; most of the team knows how to change and play a record. And when it’s de Vos’ choice? ‘Dawn Penn’s ‘No, No, No’ is a go-to for me right now. It’s incredibly versatile; you can play it at any point in the day or the evening. It’s warm, fun, and has the ability to shift the energy of the room. Whether you want to dance or just relax, it sets the perfect tone, and that’s exactly the feeling we aim to share with our guests.’