Like most Londoners, we have a love-hate relationship with Soho. Slow-moving tourists, heaving streets and sticky bars are just a few of our peeves, but below the surface is a melting pot of cultures, cuisines – and some of the best restaurants in the city.

As much as we love a new opening, the longstanding institutions like Quo Vadis, Andrew Edmunds and The French House offer a glimpse into the rich gastronomic heritage of this historic neighbourhood. Their focus on excellent produce and changing daily menus long pre-date the emergence of ‘seasonality’ as a trend. Though only gracing the streets in 2020, Noble Rot Soho effortlessly captures the essence of this legacy.

For a special brunch, Tom Cenci’s playful take on the classics at Nessa are a must. Their ‘Not Avocado on Toast’ swaps British greens into the cult dish – taking a stand against the environmental impact of avocados. Milk Beach’s Soho spot brings the Aussie coastal vibe with a neutral palette, terrazzo flooring and an open kitchen serving modern Australian dishes.

For us, nothing says heart-to-heart like knee-to-knee at the counter, and Soho’s maze of backstreets and boltholes lends itself to a cosy date night. Kiln is a lively counter restaurant both in vibe and flavour – we’re looking at you, lamb larb. For a more subdued affair, Ducksoup serves seasonal small plates alongside an extensive wine list – and the two-person window seats either side of Rita’s are the perfect place to watch Soho unfold with a mini martini in hand.

When we inevitably *don’t* get a table at The Devonshire, we thank God for modern-Indian Kricket across the road. Underneath you’ll find SOMA, a sleek speakeasy with a cocktail list influenced by the aromas upstairs such as the Chaat – a spiced twist on a classic margarita.

Forever in a rush, Plaza Khao Gaeng is a fast-paced Thai restaurant above Arcade Food Hall, celebrating the punchy flavours of southern Thailand in a casual canteen setting. The flavours are big, the service is quick and the menu is best enjoyed with a group. Supernova made waves last summer for bringing smash burgers to our periphery – and is still a great grab-and-go option. Similarly, walk into Miznon for the best loaded pitas we’ve had outside the Middle East. In fact, the tomato salad has also left a mark.

Dalston’s minimalist cocktail bar Three Sheets has made its way to the masses, opening just round the corner from Noble Rot. Intimate and elegant, it’s *the* place for a drink to whet the night. Below Nest is a no-frills underground basement bar so close to the theatres above that you may have to hush if they’re live on stage. And then, of course, there’s the allure of a late-night visit to Bar Italia, another timeless Soho institution.

Where to slink off to when this all gets a bit much? It doesn’t get more lavish than the Broadwick Hotel – a dreamworld of upholstered walls, blue leopard print bathrooms and clashing tonal prints. Head down to their sultry basement restaurant, Dear Jackie, for refined Italian dishes or straight up to Flute for a final drink on the wrap-around roof terrace, ending the night on a literal high.