As a food lover in a big city, we are spoilt for choice when it comes to eating out. There are so many options to choose from that restaurants can easily become ‘bucket list’ items – there to be triumphantly ticked off before we hurry along to the next new venue to see what all the fuss is about.
So the big question is, how does a restaurant manage to stay on the list? To secure the invaluable repeat customer in a buzzing world of supper clubs, pop-ups and never ending alternatives?
The phrase ‘dining institution’ shouldn’t be used lightly, but it’s a badge of honour I think we can all agree that St. John can – and should – wear proudly. Founded in 1994 by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver, it has served countless plates, won many hearts and successfully built loyal communities around all three of their London sites.
St. John is a perfect marriage of my two great loves; architecture and excellent food. The original site was formerly a smokehouse just around the corner from Smithfield Market that had fallen into serious disrepair since ham and bacon smoking ceased in 1967. Now a restaurant, bakery and bar, this hustle of continuous activity is contrasted by the striking simplicity of the interiors. Henderson previously trained as an architect and it was his idea to whitewash the walls – a bold choice further backed up by the decision to have no art, no music, and minimal table settings.
It’s definitely not cosy, but Henderson’s modest and timeless design creates a sense of ‘relaxed formalness’, effortlessly crafted to ensure the food takes centre stage. As a pioneer of ‘nose-to-tail’ dining, Henderson remarked that it was ‘disingenuous’ to not eat the whole animal – a rationale difficult to argue with (even if the thought of tongue, hearts and offal makes your toes curl a little) and near impossible once you’ve had a taste of their inimitable roast bone marrow and parsley salad.
In a world where ‘concepts’ and ‘journeys’ are increasingly elaborate, St. John’s staunch rejection of fashions and fuss means that it hasn’t dated – and their customers remain as loyal today as they were 30 years ago. Perhaps St. John’s simplicity is best summed up by the fact that in 2009 it was awarded a Michelin Star and has quietly retained it ever since. You’d only know about it if you scoured the website’s small print with a fine-toothed comb – the epitome of understated cool in a competitive world where it sometimes seems the only way to survive is to shout the loudest. As they say, it’s the quiet ones you ought to watch.
